Grand Wall Gimli Light Belay Device

After using and selling many ATC for more than 3 years we can say without a doubt that the GRAND WALL Gimli Light deserves a spot in the Value Choice category.

According to, the GRAND WALL Gimli Light is the world's lightest "guide mode" belay device made with a bottom wire loop. Because climbing is a fight against gravity, lighter products are much welcome. However, keeping down the weight on products make them sometime more fragile and costly. But here comes the Gimli Light because I'm still trying to find where is the downside in that lightweight design. The weight according to the manufacture is, at 49g, lighter than what I have on my own balance at 53g (average weight based on 4 devices) which is still the lightest in the world and lighter than many basic ATC that don't provide "guide mode". A "guide mode" allows the user to belay one or two followers in an auto-block system which is a must for belaying from above unless you master and prefer the auto-blocking Munter Hitch. 

The Gimli Light works with a rope diameter of 7.7 to 11 mm which includes probably over 95% of all dynamic climbing rope in the industry. I would prefer a slightly bigger clipping hole but it's still big enough to take 2 small or thin biners like the GRAND WALL Malamute Wire Gate, the DMM Chimera or the CAMP Dyon. A big hole allow us to quickly clip two quickdraws in opposite gates when having 2 bolts anchors instead of building an anchor with slings and locking biners. This technique is less popular but it's good for a fast and light ascent. The clear winner for clipping 2 draws is the DMM Pivot which is also the best for lowering a climber while belaying from above. However, this device is much heavier and pricy than the Gimli Light which brings us to the next big point.

We cannot give a "Value" winner without considering the price and if you think the Gimli Light score high on lightweight, it jump sky high on price value chart because this product, at $17.95 CAD, is 2 to 3 times cheaper than other similar products. This seems too good to be true but it's true.

The GRAND WALL Gimli Light works pretty much like all other ATC. It brakes the rope well and it allows "guide" mode but it's not a brake assisted device. It's a simple design like many more ATC from other brands. However, this one is very light and very cheap. That's why it should be clip on most harnesses, especially for trad, alpine and multi-pitch routes. For more details on how to use the Gimli Light take a look at the user guide.

For more Verti Call Choice Award follow the next links
Performance: The top products no matter the price!
Ultralight: The lightest products without sacrificing the performance!
Value: The best quality for the price!
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Posted by Marc-Olivier Chabot

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